30/03/09
Today i assembled 3 kitchen cupboards using a nail gun and a cordless drill then i fitted the scribes asswell using a drop saw to cut the scribe at the correct lengths then in the after noon i hammered cams and tz's into chipboard and also in the afternoon i cleaned up the glue and stickers of the wood using a plane blade to scrape any left overs off theni cleaned them with mineral turps
31/03/09
This morning i assembled 16 bedside tables and then drilled 96 brackets into 48 pieces of wood after a drilled 16 drawer runners into the the chipboard then after smoko i cleaned doors that had just arrived on apallet then after lunch i started assembling the draw handles also to give the drawers extra support i used a nail gun to shoot nails into the base of the drawers then i used a staple gun to staple the MDF wood back onto the drawers.
1/04/09
Today i was going to the work site but something came up soi stayed at the factory and helped efron and matt build some more side cupboards
2/04/09
today was the day when i was of to the work site i took us 20 mins to get there and 20 mins back we got there and opened the factory styled site iswept up and then we began
Tuesday, March 31, 2009
Wednesday, March 18, 2009
Saw Stool
Sawstool
Today Keith drew a design of a saw stool up on the white board my first task was to draw a full sized (to scale) drawing of the saw stool my drawing included the head which was 900mm long and 90mm wide it also includes 4 legs of the size of 645mm high this made the saw stool to high for my size to reach with my leg so i shortened my leg sizes to 575mm which made my stool stand at 600mm high which was a perfect size for me.
This stool also includes to cleats which where 140 x 19 mm these kept the legs in position we also had to blocks under neath the stool for extra strength after my drawing was done it was time to start my saw stool i started with the head i measured 150mm in from each end and marked where the legs should be after i sawed 15mm down and chiseled the waste out.
After all of the slots were done on the head i cut the legs i marked them at 620 end cut the legs on the drop saw then i marked out my leg joints with the sliding bevel at a one in four angle i then fitted my legs to the head then it was time to make the base to fit the stool into to give the right angle David and i worked hard building the base then we fitted my stool to the base then all i need to do is add the cleat and the block i added the cleat first by screwing them into the perfect angles of the legs after they were in i then fitted the block into the bottom of the stool after that i used the orbit sander and sanded my job.
Today Keith drew a design of a saw stool up on the white board my first task was to draw a full sized (to scale) drawing of the saw stool my drawing included the head which was 900mm long and 90mm wide it also includes 4 legs of the size of 645mm high this made the saw stool to high for my size to reach with my leg so i shortened my leg sizes to 575mm which made my stool stand at 600mm high which was a perfect size for me.
This stool also includes to cleats which where 140 x 19 mm these kept the legs in position we also had to blocks under neath the stool for extra strength after my drawing was done it was time to start my saw stool i started with the head i measured 150mm in from each end and marked where the legs should be after i sawed 15mm down and chiseled the waste out.
After all of the slots were done on the head i cut the legs i marked them at 620 end cut the legs on the drop saw then i marked out my leg joints with the sliding bevel at a one in four angle i then fitted my legs to the head then it was time to make the base to fit the stool into to give the right angle David and i worked hard building the base then we fitted my stool to the base then all i need to do is add the cleat and the block i added the cleat first by screwing them into the perfect angles of the legs after they were in i then fitted the block into the bottom of the stool after that i used the orbit sander and sanded my job.
Basic Joints
Housing Joints
Today i got my first task of building 3 housing joints called the Tounged housing joint, the Through housing joint and the Stopped housing joint i first recieved my plans which i studied then i marked out the wood, next i sawed the 3 joints depth which was 10 mm deep for the tounged housing joint i only needed to take 10mm wide out of the base wood for the through housing joint i had to take out 30 mm's wide out of the base plate and only half of the base woods 30mm's depth and width out for the stopped housing joint.
Halving Joints
Today i made a Halving Joint set up with 4 halving joints on it these are called the Dovetail halving, the Tee halving, the Stopped halving and the Corner halving joint this was a difficult task but i managed to work it out i made the stopped, tee and corner halving joints very easy by sawing down 10mm downwards then chisseling the waste out of the wood but the Dovetail joint was difficult by the angles that need to be cut from the joint and the base but i worked it out and ended up with a nice flush joint.
Mortise And Tenon Joints
Today i got the difficult task of building 3 Mortise and Tenon joints called the Haunched Joint, the Stub joint and the Throught Joint i firstly marked out my wood by using a marking gauge going in 10mm from each side leaving a centre of the wood i then got a 8mm drill bit which i drilled downwards making a hole through the wood then i cut my Mortise and Tenons and noticed that the joints were to small for the hole so i made 2 wedges to wedge into the hole this tightened the joint leaving it in a tight stable joint.
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